Shhhh… the trees are sleeping — but we’re not! Pruning is one of our most important winter activities. With over 19,000 trees growing in our fields, it takes our team several weeks to complete this work each year. Winter dormancy gives us a rare and valuable opportunity: clear visibility of tree structure, which guides precise pruning decisions that shape healthy growth for years to come. With leaves gone and growth paused, late winter—January through early February—offers the ideal window for structural pruning of shade trees.
Pruning during dormancy also sets trees up for success in spring. As growth resumes, trees begin sealing pruning wounds before insect populations and fungal pressure increase, reducing the risk of disease and stress. Guidance from the Nebraska Forest Service and PlantNebraska consistently points to winter dormancy as the best time for structure-focused pruning. Whether pruning occurs in mid-January or early February, the benefits remain the same as long as trees are fully dormant. Because pruning can feel intimidating, this guide breaks down when and how to prune during winter dormancy—so you can approach late winter with confidence.
The Science Behind Winter Pruning
While my favorite reason for winter pruning is that you can actually see what you’re doing, there are also clear, science-backed reasons why late winter is the best time for structural pruning.
- When trees are fully dormant, they experience minimal stress because energy is stored rather than being used for new growth. Insect activity and fungal pressure are also extremely low during winter, which reduces the risk of disease entering through fresh pruning cuts.
- As temperatures warm in early spring, trees pruned during dormancy are ready to respond quickly. Stored energy is directed toward sealing pruning wounds efficiently and supporting healthy, well-placed new growth. Because the tree isn’t balancing active growth at the time of pruning, this process is more effective and less taxing than pruning during the growing season.
Together, these conditions allow trees to respond exactly the way we want them to—by putting their energy into strong structure, balanced branching, and long-term health as the growing season begins.
What Structural Pruning Looks Like This Time of Year
Winter pruning isn’t about cutting trees back — it’s about guiding their future form. During late winter, crews typically focus on:
-
Removing dead, broken, damaged, or crossing branches
-
Identifying and subordinating codominant stems to maintain a strong central leader
-
Ensuring tall-growing species develop one dominant leader into the canopy
-
Spacing major scaffold branches at least 18 inches apart along the trunk
-
Retaining low branches on young trees to build trunk strength and taper
-
Making clean cuts just outside the branch collar to support proper compartmentalization
Addressing these issues early—while branches are still small—reduces the need for large corrective cuts later in the tree’s life.
Important Seasonal Notes to Know
A few timing reminders that protect tree health year-round:
-
Light pruning can occur almost anytime, but heavy pruning is best reserved for winter
-
Oaks: Avoid pruning in spring and early summer due to oak wilt risk
-
Elms: Avoid pruning during periods of active Dutch Elm Disease transmission
-
Wound paints and sealants are not recommended — trees seal wounds more effectively on their own
Frequently Asked Questions
Is February still a good time to prune shade trees?
Yes. As long as trees remain dormant and buds have not broken, early February is an excellent time for structural pruning.
Why not prune trees in summer instead?
Summer pruning increases stress, reduces stored energy, and raises the risk of disease due to active insects and pathogens.
Do pruning cuts heal faster in winter or spring?
Cuts made in winter begin sealing quickly once spring growth starts, which supports efficient wound closure
